JAPAN’S ORGANIC FOODS: Brewer goes back to basics but can’t call his product soy sauce

Editor’s note: This is the third of a six-part series focusing on Japan’s organic foods, produced by such traditional techniques as fermentation. This series will appear on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays.

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Yoichi Ninagawa overturned decades of tradition, started from scratch and took the soy out of soy sauce to produce a craft condiment at his Nitto Jozo brewery in Aichi Prefecture.

Despite his unorthodox method, the third-generation brewer got it right; his product has proved popular in Hekinan, a small city where the brewery is located.

But the sauce did not please everyone. Government authorities have now prohibited Ninagawa from using the word “shoyu” (as soy sauce is called in Japanese) on the label for the product.

His endeavor stemmed from a desire to produce the sort of shoyu that Hekinan, known for its soy sauce and mirin, has long been associated with: “shiro-tamari.”

Read more here: http://ajw.asahi.com/article/cool_japan/style/AJ201501100009